Asturian Fabada

Soak the white beans in plenty of cold water ahead of time (for 8–12 hours or overnight). Separately, soak the lacón and pork belly in cold water for 1–2 hours, changing the water once or twice to draw out the excess salt.

Drain the beans and transfer them to a wide, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven. Add the whole peeled onion, garlic, bay leaf and olive oil, then cover with cold water so it sits about 2 finger-widths above the beans.

Bring to a rolling boil over medium heat and carefully skim off the foam that rises to the surface.

Add the chorizo, blood sausage, lacón and pork belly to the beans, then stir in the saffron and paprika.

Once the broth comes back to a boil, pour in a glass of cold water to cool the beans slightly (the classic Asturian technique of asustar las fabes, or "shocking" the beans — this keeps their skins from splitting), then reduce the heat to the lowest setting.

Simmer, partially covered, for 2–2.5 hours. Never stir with a spoon — just gently swirl the pot in a circular motion so the beans stay whole. Top up with hot water if the liquid drops below the level of the beans.

About 15–20 minutes before it's done, taste the broth and adjust the salt — the meats are already fairly salty. The beans should be completely tender and the broth slightly thickened.

Remove from the heat and let the fabada rest, covered, for at least 30 minutes. Take out the meats, slice them, arrange on top of or alongside the beans, and serve hot in deep bowls.